Nov 2, 2024

There are harbor towns, and then there are harbor towns

Have we mentioned one of our favorite states to visit, is immediately to the north of Ohio? Our love of Michigan might trigger some particular sports fans, but it is such a picturesque place to be. Charlevoix is situated in Northern Michigan, an hour from Mackinaw City and Traverse City, right on the shores of Lake Michigan. However, the downtown is beyond exceptional as its banks are up from Round Lake, just down the channel from Lake Michigan, and the ferry that can take you away to Beaver Island!

Everyone in Charlevoix is accommodating and welcoming. There is a laid-back feeling here that nothing needs to be rushed. Take your time and enjoy the day. Make the most of everything, and don’t miss a moment to be present. There are activities and places to go in all four seasons of the year. The surprises are found in the adventures often uncharted. We hope our guide below inspires you to plan a trip to a place like Charlevoix, where we’ve been fortunate to return and look forward to our next visit.

Where to stay

The Earl is a boutique hotel located in downtown Charlevoix by the drawbridge. Architecturally stunning, the renovated building features an addition that was incredibly well done in respecting and honoring the legacy of Earl Young’s design of Weathervane Lodge, which originally opened in 1959. We especially enjoyed walking to many of downtown Charlevoix’s shops and restaurants (more on that below).

The rooms are well appointed, with midcentury furniture paying homage to the period and great town views and Round Lake views. The accent lighting under the bed and bathroom vanity were unexpected touches of detail that we particularly appreciated. Beamed ceilings were also inspiring as we plan the future of our primary bedroom at home.

Beyond the room, there is LO Bar offering food and beverages, a pool, and a fitness room. Continental breakfast is also included. The lobby is a welcoming space to hang out, with a fireplace and live music on certain evenings. Be sure to also take the elevator up to the fourth floor, where you’ll find the rooftop patio with sweeping views and HI Bar, which is open seasonally.

What to see

Fisherman’s Island State Park

We checked out Fisherman’s Island State Park before sunset. It’s a beautiful rustic campground on Lake Michigan. We were in a therapeutic moment as we enjoyed the sound of the waves rolling in and walking along the sand by ourselves. There are several great hikes here, and locals have said it is a good place to find Petoskey stones (first thing in the morning or right after a rain event).

Mushroom House Tours

Edith Pair runs Mushroom House Tours, where she and her guides will take you around in an electric 6-seater cart to learn about the famous thatched roof and stone houses designed and built by the late Earl Young (we mention him above with the hotel). Mr. Young was an eclectic individual who collected large boulders and rocks from Lake Michigan, where he then taught himself masonry and built some pretty impressive dwellings throughout his life. You can stay in one of the Mushroom Houses, as many are available as vacation rentals!

Jordan Valley Outfitters

Take a scenic drive 20 minutes from downtown Charlevoix to East Jordan where you’ll find Jordan Valley Outfitters. We enjoyed a guided raft tour on the Jordan River, appreciating nature as intended. Learning about how conservation efforts are being honored in Michigan was music to our ears. Respect for the land is so important, especially in our travels and tourism. Did you know tamarac trees, while coniferous, are the only ones to change from green and lose their needles?

Jordan Valley Glassworks

While in East Jordan, pop into Jay Bavers’ Jordan Valley Glassworks. Jay is a glassblower trained at the Corning Museum of Glass in New York. On our last visit, he and partner Glenna Haney demonstrated as they made a lotion pump; we learned more about this medium. David then worked with Jay to make a bottle we will use in our kitchen for avocado oil!

Where to eat + drink

Harbor View Cafe

The comfortable Harbor View Cafe serves classic American breakfast fare. Choose from omelets, waffles, oatmeal, skillets, or French Toast. Sit down and enjoy a cup of coffee as you plan your day, with enough fuel to keep you going.

Bridge Street Tap Room

Located by the drawbridge, Bridge Street Tap Room has many Michigan beers on tap. The bruschetta was incredible, with melted cheese atop juicy tomatoes and a fantastic balsamic reduction. The burger and burrito we ordered were excellent. We enjoy the relaxing vibes here. Even our server told us they still enjoy coming in and hanging out when they have the day off. It’s that type of place!

Terry’s Place

Conveniently downtown, they are known for Lake Whitefish dinners and feature a great wine selection, but they also offer a full bar. The cocktails were stiff, and the sourdough rolls were divine. Meal portions are very generous. Must-try items include stewed tomatoes with parmesan cheese and croutons, perfect for a chilly day. Then, the Whitefish, of course! Dessert was capped off with a freshly puffed chocolate soufflé from the oven.

Grey Gables Restaurant

Step back into history as you walk through the doors of a classic Victorian home, now Grey Gables Restaurant, near the Charlevoix Summer Home Association on Belvedere Avenue. Choose between either bar or dining room seating, where you will be presented with the drink menu, special menu, wine list, and dinner menu. Both of us started with espresso cocktails. Edward had the Pasta Bolognese and David ordered the Chicken Marsala. Be rest assured you won’t go wrong with any selection you make!

The Happy Troll Deli & Pub

It's a delicious spot to order takeaway or sit down and have a soup and sandwich at The Happy Troll. Under new management in the last year, the space is freshly nautical and relaxing. The cocktail and beer list is extensive. And if you can, save room for what looks to be amazing desserts from their bakery cases!

Harwood Gold Store & Cafe

Can you imagine a space dedicated to specialty maple syrup products? From their farm just a few miles down the road, Harwood Gold Store & Cafe offers their classic maple syrups, candies, sauces, dressings, cookies, and merchandise. You must also try one of their handcrafted barista beverages, flavored with maple syrup if you choose! David enjoyed an Iced Maple and Cinnamon Latte that was heavenly for a fall day.

Folklor Wine & Cider

Folklor Wine & Cider in Charlevoix is newer to the Northern Michigan winery scene. Started by Izabela and her husband Derrick, experienced wine farmers, it strives to be an organic, estate-grown, and produced vineyard. We have no doubt they will achieve their dream, as the wines here are five-star to us and hopefully will be rated highly one day soon, too.

Where to shop?

Elements Gallery

If you’re looking for beautiful art, Elements Gallery has pieces made by Michigan artists, many of whom are local to the area. We enjoyed seeing unique interpretations of the lighthouse and cherry trees. Our souvenir is a coffee scoop with a hand-turned wooden handle (it can also double as a candle snuffer).

Cherry Republic

Stop into the Cherry Republic, where all the products are made right in Michigan. True to its name, the variety of cherry-flavored foods and beverages is astounding. Sample some salsas and sauces, then add the favorites to your basket. Hang out at the tasting bar, where you can order a flight of six wines to taste for a nominal fee. You can also order many items online or call the store for gift baskets to be made up for family and friends.

The Taffy Barrel

Step back in time for an old-fashioned candy store experience at The Taffy Barrel. Take note of all the unique flavors and other classic candies as you release your inner child. Discover new flavor profiles reimagined in bite-size pieces of taffy. From Red Velvet Cake to PB&J, some were more adventurous, such as Pickle and Chili Mango. The Jelly Belly wall is impressive, where you can fill a bag with your own combination to take home. We’d add this store to your list for stocking stuffers and other holiday treats!

The Lake House

Go to The Lake House to find a gift for someone challenging to shop for. While they specialize in gifts and decor for the home, cottage, and even boats, there are greeting cards, magnets, socks, YETI, and dog collars. If you plan to host a gathering, this is a terrific place to get accents to spread cheer for any theme. It was a lot of fun wandering around the aisles, finding treasures and surprises. Let’s say Mitzi is getting a new collar from Charlevoix this holiday season!

Bier’s Art Gallery

This art gallery is located in an old schoolhouse and features a wide variety of art from 100 artists, many from across Michigan. The owners are also incredible potters. We’d love to add some of their pieces to our home someday, including metal sculptures for landscaping! Just next door, if you’re craving a craft beer, Bier’s Inwood Brewery is located in an old Victorian home behind the schoolhouse.

Kelly’s Antiques

Don Kelly’s Antique Barn has the ultimate collections and pieces you cannot find elsewhere. Don also restores furniture, including re-caning and wicker repair! You could spend hours here, spotting finds around every turn and maybe even under something else. Be sure to check out the hundreds of chairs upstairs, too!

Chill Retro

A few minutes from downtown Charlevoix, Chill Retro, a vintage antique store, has board games, toys, vinyl collections, and other fun elements to add to any space. Their slogan, “Don’t need it, we got it,” made us chuckle, but it’s so true! Have a great time exploring; you might be amazed at what you purchase to give a second life!